After a long winter at home back in Ireland, Rosary has swapped her second skin of neoprene for a bikini & boardies, and jettted off to her second home, Indonesia. While we eagerly await the surf stories and photos from her trip so far, here is a look back to a previous Indo adventure. One wave, one sequence, but an epic one at that … thought it deserved it’s own post!
Escaping the ever-increasing crowds of West El Salvador’s right points we headed east to another of El Salvador’s dream waves. Needing a change of scenery after almost a month in a bustling fishing village, this new spot could not have been more different. A favourite wave of mine from the journey north, we returned to the same tiny homestay in the middle of the forest only a five-minute walk to the wave. Learning from my previous experience, we brought all our own food, timed the trip with a swell and prayed for afternoon glass-offs to avoid the hordes of morning boats. Continue reading →
With the heart of the 2014 season in full swing in the Mentawai’s, here is a look back at our Aussie Mermaid Shannon‘s salty sessions from last year.
Living and loving life in the Mentawai’s, Shannon really is the embodiment of ‘Home is where the waves are’. Mouth watering barrels, magic moments and great crew…all on her front doorstep! It doesn’t get much better…living the dream Shan!!
Leaving me to my slightly less heart-in-mouth waves further south, Rosary set off on her journey, two overnight buses north, with the promise of the big heavy beachies that Mexico is famous for. Setting up her tent, her home for the next two months, Rosary settled in to her new spot. I was only a little ashamed that I had ditched my tent and opted for an $8 a night room after she left, but I was craving some creature comforts. Continue reading →
Two 13 hour bus journeys, two border crossings and a fading hangover later, Nathan and I arrived at our destination, a fishing village in West El Salvador. Back to my concrete cell above a shop, with a balcony overlooking my favourite wave, pupusas stuffed with various lava hot fillings and the best fruit salads of my trip. With pretty consistent waves, and cool locals, this was the perfect spot to settle down for a while for some cheap living. Continue reading →
In search of adventures and epic waves, our Aussie shredder Shannon left the safety of life as a marine biologist in South West Oz…and that’s exactly what she found! Setting up camp in the Mentawai’s, surfing some of the best waves in the world right on her doorstep, living by the land and falling in love, she really has found paradise. Continue reading →
With Rosary bee-lining it to the next super heavy Mexican beachie, I headed off on my own to another spot that was less likely to break my boards or my back. After 3 weeks in a tent I decided to treat myself to an actual bed…my own room on stilts with a concrete platform to do yoga and a view of the wave, with stray dogs & a parrot for company…heaven! Meeting some cool people, including a likeminded surf chica from Switzerland, Prisca, living cheap and getting fun waves, this was a spot I wanted to put some time in. Continue reading →