Magic Sessions and Mischievous Injuries
Whilst most surfers search for a life of perfect waves in tropical climates all year round, Rosary is quite content with her ‘best-of-both’ philosophy. Her year is split quite neatly in two between “Home”: the cold, unforgiving, gems that the Irish winter occasionally delivers to those with patience and local knowledge, and “Away”: an escape from the inconsistent Irish summer to adventures and perfect waves abroad on her hard earned winter wages.
This year, “Away” is Rosary’s home-away-from-home, Indonesia. I couldn’t even begin to calculate how many years Rosary has probably spent on Indonesia’s wave abundant shores. She continues to travel to more new spots each year, as well as returning to some old and new favourites, making new friends and catching up with the familiar faces along the way. While Rosary is currently settling into one of her Indonesian missions, we take a look at her well spent winter days in Ireland, and talk about her not so well advised evening shenanigans; a story best told straight from the horse’s mouth!
“I had the bright idea of wearing a pair of roller skates to my friends 80’s vs 90’s themed birthday party with the intention of taking them off after a couple of pints. But I was having way too much fun…until I tripped over a misplaced concrete block on the way out and went flying! I didn’t realise the amount of damage I’d done and even drove the 45 minutes home the next morning with my, by then, “cankle”, before deciding that maybe I should get it x-rayed….”
“I spent 7 weeks on the couch before starting physio, as well as breaking it, I had sprained it really badly also. Longest I’ve been out of the water! In some ways it was a positive experience, it made me appreciate my health & fitness and, obviously, surfing even more-so.”
The Return to the Ocean:
“The first few surfs were humbling to say the least…it’s still not right but I’ve had a few magic sessions here and there.”
“As for surfing at home… Cold, inconsistent, often with gale-force winds for weeks, but if you’re patient and willing to drive ALOT, it can pay off.”