Crowds, Caves & Cool Locals

Fins Out!

Licking my wounds from El Salvadors sea urchin population, and facing some time out of the water to heal, I braved the 26 hour journey to Mexico. I hadn’t finished with El Salvador, but I had definitely come off worse in our little altercation and it was time to reconnect with Rosary before she disappeared too far North. With the promise of fun waves and good people I was pretty excited.

With pockets of no internet along the Mexican coastline, I wasn’t sure when our Irish charger would resurface. Wanting to brush off the cobwebs from the painfully long bus journey and gingerly test out my new pin-cushion feet, I paddled out at a super crowded left point to check it out. Once I was out there I realised what I had got myself in to…a heavy, barreling, perfect wave that freight trained from out the back of the point, all the way into the beach, if you could make it through the sections. With banks the best they had been in years, a decent sized swell, and a dropping tide, I was not really equipped to surf my back-hand after a month of surfing rights. A few brain rattling wipe-outs later I started to get the hang of it and got into some of the best lefts I have had in years. Straight out the water I bumped right into Rosary…and the exploration plans began.

Enjoying being back in the water unfortunately, but unsurprisingly, didn’t last long for me. Known for being accident prone, 3 days later, half asleep, and possibly a little hungover, I ended up being smashed against the rocks and bounced around a cave…another four days out the water & relegated to scratched up photographer. From then on the trip was a pretty mixed bag wave wise.